The Black Diamond Grampians Bouldering Festival includes the only outdoor bouldering competition in Australia (insert froth here).
We call it a 'Casual Bouldering comp' not because the competition is casual but because there are no official judges nor set problems that you have to climb. You just head out to the blocs and crush whatever you can. When you send, get another competitor to sign off on your ascent to validate that no one is telling any porkies. The better the send, the bigger the score, the biggest scores win.
Scoring: A problem gets 100 points for each V-grade, ie V1 is worth 100, V8 is worth 800, V12 is worth 1200. You get a bonus 10% if you flash a problem, you lose 10% if you have done the problem before (be honest!). A person's top six ascents combine for their over all score, highest score wins. In the event of a tie, a person's seventh, eighth etc problems will come into play. (Note that a V0 is worth 50 points.)
Available areas: All problems must be at Andersens, Echidna Wall (a brand-new area! We will provide a topo with your entry sheet), Hollow Mountain Cave, Loopeys and the Kindergarten. This provides a wide grade and style range with enough footprint to spread the competition out whilst remaining compact enough that you will always hear your fellow competitors power screams of joy and the bellows of anguish.
Gold coin donation entry: Entry to the competition for Festival attendees is via a gold coin donation to CliffCare. We support CliffCare for the work they do to ensure we can keep bouldering in the Gramps.
There are two categories to the comp; Individual and Teams.
Every person who enters the comp will compete in an individual division.
There are three individual divisions; Beginner (V0-V3), Intermediate (V4-7) and Advanced (V8+).
The divisions are self-seeding – you say which division you are in.
Seeding yourself is easy – take the top grade that you think you are going to climb, that's your category. Think you're gonna send a V9? You're Advanced. Have your sights set on ticking V3, welcome to the Beginner category. Got your eye on some sweet-as V6s? Then you are smack in the middle of Intermediate. Easy as.
V0 - V3 // Beginner (aka aspirational crushers)
V4 - V7 // intimidate (aka Crushers in Waiting)
V8 + // Advanced (aka The already strong)
At registration you'll be given a scorecard, use it to record your ascents on the day. Make sure that each ascent is signed off by another competitor. Return your scorecard to Festival HQ when the competition is over.
Important note: This is the first year that we are running the Festival, this means that the format is experimental – we are not going to separate individual competitors into Men's and Women's divisions. We believe that given the comp is self-seeding, that you can climb whatever problems you want (meaning the setting can't be too morpho) and that there is no difference between a man climbing a V5 and a women climbing a V5 that we can boulder in the competition together. We hope it works out as we think it is the right thing to do but it is an experiment. Please let us know what you think, we really do care.
For those who want to we are offering a team category. Form a team because nothing supercharges the sendage like the support of your near and dears. the format is simple-as;
- Form a team of four, that's you and three mates
- Give yourself a cool name
- Note that cool name on the entry form
- Members of a team must stay together all day during the comp, that's the point of being in a team right
- Scream, spot and support your team mates to get them up the hardest problems they've ever sent. You're all in this together
- The team score is the average of the four team member's individual scores (i.e. their top six boulders as per the individual category)
Maximise the fun, maximise the psyche, maximise the sending, rope in your SuperFriends, form a team.
Note; all team entrants are still entered into individual categories.
In addition to Individual and Team there are also some Bonus Awards;
Forget about your top six problems, this award goes to the person who accumulates the greatest number of points in total. Be strategic and multiply your tickage. Climb till you puke, the most points takes the crown.
Nathan Manning Memorial Bleeding Tips Award
On Saturday night show us your tips; flappers, red-raw, bleeding, worn through, gouged, sliced, diced and julienned, the more mangled the better.
Simon Madden Award for Best Dressedness
Fabulous or frightening, frocked up or fly-as, the best dressed comp competitor (as judged by Simon) wins a prize.
Best Photo Awards
Bring your camera, snap your mates, document the whole weekend. After the Festival we, in conjunction with one of our fave photogs, Kamil Sustiak, will award prizes in two categories, 'Rat Race Best Bouldering Shot' and the 'Dirtbag Glamour Best Lifestyle Shot'
putting the fun back into Fund Raising
Compete and feel good. Because we love the work CliffCare does to ensure we can keep bouldering in the Gramps, entry to competition for Festival attendees is via a gold coin donation.
We raise money, they represent us, we get to boulder.
Banner image this page, Julian Saunders gets Wet with Excitement (V6). Ross Taylor